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  1. Moving water + slow shutter speed..

    Was having a go at this again today. What do you think? How can i improve? How can I get longer times during the day? Lets see some of you'rs so we can share ideas and develop together! I didn't have much moving water to choose from but i'll be finding some more places soon. Have some older pics somewhere but #£$%ed if i can find them!






  3. M8.. To get a slower shutter speed in the day for waterfalls, I use a polorizer as well as a Grad filter and knock the exposure compensation down - a couple o clicks. Nice effort there mate Looking forward to seeing your next ones.

  4. Greenlander, your shots are fine mate. You need a slightly longer exposure but not to much as to overexpose them, a very fine line!

    #3 & 4 look great though IMHO. You can also do it with multiple exposures. It would be nice to see #3 again with a slow shutter and HDR type shot, so you can see into the waste pipe. I think that would make a cool shot, if its accessible to you?

    I’m sure your aware that a big F number will produce a slower shutter speed, so use this to your advantage and dial in a big F No. Also as Matt says add a polariser and/or a filter, but this can also hinder and adversely affect your photo creating unwanted colour casts! Its Far better to shoot your pic in low light. Early morning or late evening, when the lighting is at its best anyway will create some superb pics.

    Some of my slow shutter shots, but am sure you’ve seen them before.

    #1. North Wales stream.
    Fast water

    #2. Scaleber Force.
    Waterfall edit

    #3. Formby beach.
    Slow shutter beach

    I’ll try and dig out some more and post them up.

    HTH Paul

  5. worth seeing again

  6. Found some more...

    Some are extremely over exposed, and taken before I understood what was going on!

    Ingleton waterfalls - Thornton Force

    Ingleton waterfalls

    Scaleber Force Waterfall

    Ingleton waterfalls

    Ingleton waterfalls

    Fairy Glen



    Fairy Glen

  7. A small one from me ......

  8. How not to do it!

    These were taken hand held and are scanned from prints hence the quality. Taken qbout 25 years ago so can't remember shutter speed, aperture etc.!

  9. Cheers for the hints matt and Proker. I'll take the advice and go out again within the next few days and attack with bigger F numbers and my polariseing filter! See what I can find

  10. Had a quick go again quite late last night (in the rain!) Exposure times were no problem but there was still not much moving water around. Heres what I came up with



    This one you can see the water moving out from under the wheel type bit. It was also moving over the wall but doing anything too exciting the wall just came out wet and reflective


  11. Cool Next time you could add a fill flash in your long exposure, flash being on a lower power level - You get some nice effects doin that, remember to keep the flash power low

  12. Not meaning to nit pick, but it's a smaller aperture that's needed. Talking about big f-stops can make it confusing for others.

    You need it set to around f/22 GL. If it's a bright day, a polarizer (CPL) by itself may not be enough to slow things down sufficiently. In that case you'd need to add a filter to the CPL. It's not a grad you'd need by the way, it's a neutral density filter. They come in different strengths; x2, x4 and x8.

    You may or may not need to use a filter for night shots... it depends on how much ambient light you having coming from street lights etc.

    Using an ordinary flash on long exposure night shots can produce unpleasant results. It really needs a flashgun that can be set to slow sync so you don't get nasty effects (ie, an underexposed background together with a correctly exposed or overexposed foreground).

  13. Hi everyone. Thanks for the views/opinions/advice. Went out yesterday morning back to the same location. Was a bit stuck for time so didn't really spend to long framing them up and stuff but I think the results are better.

    Ski says
    [QUOTE]You need it set to around f/22 GL[/QUOTE

    The best it can do is f/11 skichic. Need a new camera maybe I shot these at f/11 and used the polarizer. I don't have any other filters of any use just colour ones.

    Anyway the polarizerseemed to work well, It was a much brighter day but that did seem to slow things down enough for me to get a slightly longer exposure.

    Do have a look and let me know what you think

    This one the muppet that I am I forgot to set the white balance. Tried to sort it out later in photoshop. Hard for me being colour blind

    A Pipe

    Pleased with the colour of the water here

    Had A go at HDR as suggested by Paul. Sorry about the watermark I need some alternative software?? Not something ive had much practise with. What do you think?







    Now thaT ive got the hang of it I'll go out searching for some better locations. This place is convienant as its only a few minutes from where I live

  14. Quote Originally Posted by mattee1970
    A small one from me ......


    Quote Originally Posted by Skichic
    Not meaning to nit pick, but it's a smaller aperture that's needed. Talking about big f-stops can make it confusing for others.
    Eh? A big F number is a smaller aperture?

    I like them all, but these two are ace.


  15. Quote Originally Posted by Porker
    Eh? A big F number is a smaller aperture?
    I said that. But the point I was making is that it's standard practise to refer to aperture being large or small, rather than talking about big or small f-stop numbers.

    Whichever way you refer to it wouldn't make any difference to someone who understands how it works, but aperture and f-stops is something that confuses a lot of people who are learning the basics, as GL is.

  16. awww no serial for photomatix greenlander ? hehehehehehe

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